So I went down this morning, wasn't expecting much, here's what I found (undisclosed location). These were just quick snaps w/ my phone before I left, had to go to work. There were nice liners peeling north to my left but I didn't really have time to wait around for the right waves to take pics of, just took pics of the first 5 waves that came my way.
It was glassy, solid power, bout waist high, and breaking right up to the beach, totally reachable. There was a LOT to work with. Frontside, backside, quick wraps, launchpads, liners, air drops. Definitely the best day I've been out all year but I haven't been out much so take that FWIW....
the only thing that sucked is since it was early AM I wasn't quite awake enough when I went full sprint on my first wave... wave broke too soon so I kicked my board out but somehow kicked it right into the wave... it ended up smacking rail first right into the side of my knee. I couldn't walk for like 10 mins and then the adrenaline kept me going for the sesh but unfortunately now I REALLY can't walk. Hopefully I won't be out for long.
omfggg so much ebtter then when i went yesterday. chronicles of gnarnia to the extreemmee. cant wait to get out thurr.
oh btw zeebs i snagged my brother's old cam and lens and camera bag because i dont think he really uses it anymore so i look all david behar and im ready to take some sweet pics.
omfg yes. The funny thing is I've got a pretty pimp camera and I've yet to use it on the beach.
i never have anyone to take pics of when we skim
I know, my dad's a photog but I've only had him take pics like 2 or 3 times, but other than that i've never had anyone take pics of me skim. The one exception being when luff and I took pics of each other last year on that really good day, here's the thread:
I was hoping since I have a good camera now I'd take pics but I don't know, usually when I get to the beach it's on a limited schedule so I try to make the most of it.
I'll most likely be going in various spots all week due to the incoming waves.
ill be out a lot this weekend hopefully.